“I buy the best tomatoes that I can find in the farmers’ market and I let them get super-ripe - until they’re almost bad,” he says. While orders were shouted out, Cuenca - wearing a Knicks jersey and Pornhub socks - dispensed some savory, refreshing gazpacho from the kind of sideline cooler that usually holds Gatorade, finishing the soup with a drizzle of fresh olive oil. Bearded, wearing a black baseball cap and teal Carhartt shirt, Guedez has the jovial look of someone who smiles with their whole face. So he’d set up his two rigs - each 34-inch pan powered by a propane tank - right outside the kitchen entrance, so that ingredients such as plump shrimp and trays of split lobsters could be easily ferried back and forth.Ĭuenca manned the paelleras with help from a friend and fellow cook, Orlando Guedez. Rain be damned: The block party must go on. The occasion was Arroces, Cuenca’s roving paella pop-up, held this day outside of the Mexican seafood restaurant Ensenada. After a taste, his face said it all: This is good. He was under a tent, dipping a spoon into a giant pan of paella. Last Sunday in Williamsburg - within earshot of the BQE overpass and with flood-warning alerts lighting up everyone’s phones - the chef Eduardo Cuenca was focused on his rice. Eduardo Cuenca working the paella at an Arroces event.
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